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Weekend Whipper: Poorly Placed Arm—Yes, Arm!—Flips Unfortunate Climber

This climber totally mismanaged his rope’s position.

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Photo: @escaladores.caer

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Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com.

We often warn readers about the perils of catching one’s leg behind the rope, but, as it turns out, catching any limb on the wrong side of the cord can cause an awkward (or spectacular) fall.

Today’s whippee was projecting Gemma Preciosa, in El Vellón, Madrid—a beautifully textured pitch with a tough crux between bolts one and two. He wisely stick-clipped the second bolt to prevent a potential ground fall and started up the route with the rope underneath his right arm, as opposed to in line with his chest, which is the main reason for his weird, cartwheeling fall. Since Gemma Perciosa is a steep route, it’s possible that the leader intentionally oriented his rope like this so that the rope didn’t tug his chest away from the wall, but we would urge readers not to follow suit.

As the leader locks off his right arm and steadies himself for a distant edge, it’s painfully clear how much extra rope is lazily draped beneath his armpit. The belayer, no doubt, wanted the climber to ascend under his own power—no tight top ropes!—but in this case she contributed to the circus-like swing of the fall.

All in all, both the belayer and climber were lucky they didn’t collide into each other, someone else at the crag, or the deck.

Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.

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