Alpine Climbing

Each experiment in paring down felt like a real consequential leap—more akin to driving without a seatbelt than merely risking a speeding ticket.

David Rozul wrestles with risk, consequence, and courage at 13,000 feet.

A party of four climbers took a long fall after their anchor blew on an alpine route. Only one survived.

On November 11, 2021, my climbing partner and I weathered two avalanches while on an alpine climb in Canada. We were simul soloing and dumb luck kept us alive.

The Alpha SL 30L is unbelievably light. See how it held up in the field.

Lindič's advice is invaluable to anyone climbing high off the deck.

The ‘Travesía Doble M’ (5.11 A2; 2,200m), is the first time all four summits have been connected in a push—with or without a partner.

‘Pot’ (5.11 A3; 2,500ft) marks the end of a three-year project for Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc.

Nearly 60 years after its first ascent—and 45 since its inclusion in “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America—the Hummingbird Ridge remains as fearsome as ever.

Ready to climb in the Alps, but don't know where to start? Don't miss these six multi-pitch routes—all between 5.8 and 5.11.

The John Lauchlan Memorial Award is Canada’s biggest alpine-climbing grant, having funded trips to Patagonia, Alaska, and the Himalaya for 30 years. Apply for this year’s award by January 31.

The second ascent of the world’s first V17 // The world’s third 5.15d gets sent on livestream // James Pearson announces (for a second time) that he’s just done the world’s first E12 // And one of the Himalaya’s most intense North Faces finally see a first ascent.

Plus the two best climbing films of the week.

Prolific Alaskan pioneer David Roberts made a dangerous first ascent on Denali, but after the death of a friend he questioned whether alpinism was worth the risk. 50 years later he found his answer.

Climbing is hard when it's hot. But these warm-weather tactics will help you excel. Plus: Here are our 12 favorite warm-weather climbing destinations!

Mugs Stump spearheaded a fast-and-light approach to alpinism during the 1970s and 1980s when siege-style expeditions were still the norm. His style was a form of artistic expression: He sought purity through simplicity.

The Moose’s Tooth, topping out at 10,335 over Alaska’s Ruth Gorge, is one of the most iconic formations in North America.

Steep approaches, weighty loads, and full days make climbing in the alpine a serious affair. Likewise, climbers with big alpine goals should take their training seriously.

Eli Michel and Nafiun Awal went missing while climbing on the 10,335-foot Moose’s Tooth in Denali National Park over the weekend.

‘The Technicolour Superdream’ (A2 AI 5+ M6+; 4,200ft) required a steady head, a love of—or at least a tolerance for—sitting bivies, and many bird beak pitons.

Like any smart climber will tell you: “It’s all in the feet.”

Jackson Marvell, Matt Cornell, and Alan Rousseau put up Aim for the Bushes (VI M6 X AI 6; 5,250ft) in a three-day push.

When considering avalanches, skiers are often the first group to come to mind. But avalanches are just as perilous for ice climbers, and perhaps more deadly. 

After losing her friend to a rappelling accident and her father to a heart attack, our writer grapples with what it means to lead a well-lived life.

In 2007 Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk made an alpine-style FA of the 2,500-foot Northern Cat’s Ear Spire, the last unclimbed spire in the Great Trango Group. In the process he realized a thing or two about "style."

We climbers love our labels, but figuring out just what type of climber you really are begs defining.

A late-season climb in the Bugaboos turns south when, while on the wall, a heli lands, packs up our camp, and flies away without a word.

"Alpine climbing seems like a great way to escape the crowds, but a little intimidating. What’s a good progression?"

Think expedition climbing sounds glamorous? Allow pros Bronwyn Hodgins and Jacob Cook to pull back the curtain.

In 2007, Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley linked two monster routes to climb Cerro Torre base-to-summit in 32 hours. And you know what? It's all good, brah. ...

Get this high elevation rock while you can!

Is America’s best bouldering is above 9,000 feet? Some of us think so. Here’s what you need to know to hit the country’s finest alpine areas.

From July 11–16, Bru Brusom and Marc Toralles established “Ànima de corall” (5.12a A3 AI 5 M6; 3,600 feet) up the infamous “Touching the Void” mountain.

Progressing from weekend cragging to long alpine routes can be intimidating for anyone, even strong and competent traditional climbers.

“Full Moon Fever” has steep, splitter granite, aerated snow, corniced ridgelines, and a 3-mile summit traverse.

Over five days, three Americans established "The Pace of Comfort" (VI 5.10 A3+ M6; 3,100 feet) on the northwest face of Kichatna Spire.

Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau, and Matt Cornell completed Denali’s 9,000-foot Slovak Direct in under 22 hours.

Ian Welsted, a Piolets d’Or recipient and alpinist based in the Canadian Rockies, shares the lessons he’s learned from a life in the mountains.

When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. But they don't have to be.

The East Face of Golgotha brought avalanches, vertical snow climbing, tent-bound whippers, and more.

The 25-year-old has become the second woman to solo the iconic, 5,900-foot wall. It took her just 15 hours.

Looking to climb glaciated or snow-covered peaks? These snow anchors will keep you secure on high-consequence terrain.

Climbing spoke to French alpinist Charles Dubouloz after his stunning winter solo of the historic Rolling Stones on the Grandes Jorasses’s North Face.

He was the best alpinist of his generation, a quiet, unassuming Canadian known for bold ascents of some of the world’s most iconic peaks. At the age of 25, he traveled to Alaska to join climber Ryan Johnson for a first ascent outside Juneau. They never came back, and a frantic nine-day search left more questions than answers.

Check out Drew Copeland's author page.

Over a dozen avalanches, rockfall, a core-shot rope, and single-piece anchors tested this team to the limit during a harrowing stormy descent from a remote face in Glacier National Park.

Ascents in Canada and Pakistan, as well as two lifelong alpinists, will be awarded in Briançon, France this November.

Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines completed the first ascent of In the Shadow of Lies (WI5+ M5+ 90° ED) on the Himalayan peak.

With four first winter ascents of 8,000-meter peaks, Simone Moro has taken the art of climbing in harsh conditions to new heights, but controversy plagues his climbing résumé.

The classic story of the first ascent of the East Face of Moose's Tooth by climbing legends Jim Bridwell and Mugs Stump.

A young alpinist raised on climbing’s heroic tales finds himself a player in his own story.

Vitaliy Musiyenko connected two Grade VI ridges in the Sierra Nevada to create the 32-mile Goliath.

We caught up with filmmaker Austin Siadak to talk soloing, climbing Torre Egger with Marc, and his favorite part of The Alpinist.

Check out Anthony Walsh's author page.

Where is trad climbing in World Cups? Where are the alpine and mountaineering aspects? Comp formats need to change, obviously.

And not only was her ascent bold and quick, it was also the first female solo of the route

The author has a moment of remorse when he makes up a story with a big pay off.

Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.

Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Will 2021 be the year that the prized first winter ascent of K2 is made?

Back to back first ascents

250 years after its first ascent, climbers are still finding new routes up the famous Scottish peak.

Doug Scott helped usher in “alpine style” in mountaineering, and had a storied career as one of the most prolific and visionary alpinists of the 20th century.

After several personal losses, our columnist reexamines her relationship to speed.

Over the course of two days Hawthorn and Berman opened a new line on the coveted North Face of Mount Robson.

Ang Rita holds the record for most ascents of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen.

Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl sent Odysee, the most difficult route on the Eiger, in just 16 hours.

Check out Bennett Slavsky's author page.

Check out Piolet d'Or's author page.

The team completed the roundtrip in 3 hours, 53 minutes, and 59 seconds, beating Dean Potter’s previous FKT by 5 minutes.

Destivelle becomes the first woman to receive the award since it began in 2009.

Check out Kevin Corrigan's author page.

Sílvia Vidal spent nearly two months alone in Patagonia while completing a solo first ascent on El Chileno Grande, unaware of the unfolding pandemic in the outside world.

A team of Italian alpinists has completed a new 290-meter alpine rock route on the Red Pillar of Brouillard.

Kirill Belotserkovskiy and Grigory Chshukin opened a new line on Trud Peak, completing a round-trip of the 1,200 meter line in 23 hours.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out The Editors's author page.

Check out American Alpine Club's author page.

Check out American Alpine Club's author page.